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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, I ran the IS F tonight 6 times at a very nice track here in Oklahoma. --

The numbers surprised me. I was almost wondering what was wrong?:confused: -- I had great reaction times on every run (except one) and with my best reaction time of .154 , I pulled a 13.846 @ 104.09 mph.... 1/8 of a mile 9.071 @ 80.68mph -- 11.669 @ 1000 -- 5.997 @ 330 mark -- 60 ft time was generally 2-2.4

The only modification is the BORLA axle - backs, which makes it not only sound a whole lot better, but compared to the factory HEAVY exhaust; which is at least 20 + lbs over the Borla.

The factory has a small "pancake" looking outlet that goes to the mufflers and looks extremely restricted, I figured I would pick up at least 5 ponies or so.... considering the design of the Borla not restricting it like the factory exhuast.

I was in sport mode everytime. When I used the paddles, I ended up in the low 14's and with it in sport mode only in regular drive mode, i had my best time as noted above and all runs were anywere from 14.12 to 13.846, all 103-105mph @ the 1/4 mile mark

The temperature was about 86F (humidity 60%) on the track and it never really seemed as if I had traction problems... I did however find that I can't remember if I EVER just punched it to the floor so the gas pedal clicked on the metal piece, assuming to open it up to WOT.. but again, I held the brake with the left foot. revving it slightly and right when that last yellow light on the tree hit, I "felt" as I just stomped the pedal on all 6 runs.... so of course I'm assuming I hit the metal pedal to the metal to activate the WOT metal piece on the floorboard, everytime. OR >> I wouldn't think I would be even close to these numbers if I didn't?? but then again.. I'm still pondering over this and how I didn't get lower numbers.. :mad:

So I'm open to all opinions of what I should do and what I didn't do???

I would appreciate everyone's help as all these people at the track was surprised when 4 of the 6 runs were low 14's. Every single run however the top end was either 104 or 105 mph....

is this the norm' for some IS F's or what in the world I'm I doing incorrectly??

I thought it would easily pull into the low 13's and even high 12's. it sure does feel like it could do those numbers on the nice paved streets,, but here again, I only had the Sport mode on and did a combo of manual shifting and just slammed the pedal in automatic.

I have all my time slips and it was definitely embarissing... to say the least...

I did manage to outrun (barely sometimes) every single car I went up against...

I even weighed it, (with me in it,, -- I'm 215lbs , 6' 1"... ), it was 3975 lbs on the scales... with the factory exhaust now removed, I figured it would compensate for me keeping the spare alone, so I did leave it intact...


ANYONE's help would be greatly appreciated.... this shouldn't be putting up these numbers? or at least I wouldn't think by reading all these website and watching people run in the high 12's on youtube and reading motor trend articles, road and track, all showing high 12's... or at least 13 flat...

Hope someone can shed some light for me.... Its definitely discouraging,, but if others are running these numbers, I would figure I would be at least close?

Thank to everyone's help in advance, I need it.. :(--- LL
 

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Reaction time doesn't factor into 1/4 times. The clock starts when the car breaks the plan, your 60ft times is your enemy. With a 2-2.4 your not getting a good launch with the car, you need to be in the 1.8 to 2.0 time and you'll see your times lower.

If you continue to go, practice your launch to find the sweet spot (the point of max accel without wheel hop or spin), even if it takes you a second to get off the line, it doesn't matter unless your bracket racing or something similar.

Your Borla may have freed ponies up high but lost torque low, its typically a trade off and just moves the cars power-band around. This may not be helping you either as Lexus designed the trans to always be in the sweet spot of the factory tune.

Also, atmosphere plays a part in engine power, what was the air density the night you ran, could be that all cars were struggling. GL.
 

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Are you in sport mode with traction control off? I have a K and N typhoon filter and my best time is 13.0 @ 110mph and thats with a 2.0 60ft running on stock tires. You gotta use the paddle shifters too, I tried running it in full D mode and ended up doing [email protected] 105mph. pedal to the medal and dont paddle shift till you here the ding. thats how I did it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
keep the ideas coming..

Aaah, I just read everything, sounds like you are in sport mode but didnt mention anything about traction control....
now that you mention it, traction control was on every time.......:eek:


i know you hit the button besides the sport mode (icon with car/lines yellow in hue'); but I remember hitting it once, but it always would turn off. (besides restarting the car to dis-engage),,, how do you keep it "constantly off"? Stay in the paddle mode?? Also next time I will work the paddle shifts and upshift right when I hear the "ding"... I only ran it twice with the paddle shifters, but numbers were in the 14's, so I went to D. - so used to having a rpm light or tach light on my older vehicles...

So I'm assuming to run it at "optimal",,, always turn off the traction control and use the paddle shifters and of course shift immediately after the tone of the "ding" hits my ear?

keep the ideas coming,, please... Next time I want to run it like it should run....:rolleyes:

However, just in sport mode it seemed always to hook up and I never felt it slipping. *hence the traction control being on*, but I remember never seeing the light on the dashboard go ON, as if I was ever losing any traction or it "balking" or "slipping" to get traction on every run.

-- I guess one good thing from my runs last night that I learned,,, >> With even extreme heat (over 100 F, if not 110 F) / very dense air & humidity, using only sport mode in D, it will run consistent 13.8-14.2 in the 1/4,,, even with bad 60 ft times... 2.1 - 2.5


Thanks CLIFFTRAIL on the 60ft tips.. I really didn't power brake it at all to bring it up on the line to where the "sweet" spot should be; before launch. This is the first automatic I've owned in 10 years.. lol -- and the first vehicle with so many whistles and buttons..
___ The track was well over 100F,, as I learned from others that ran last night,, it seemed everyone had bad numbers from the group I was in.. There were some vehicles in the squad that said there times were more than 1-2 seconds off of their normal 1/4 mile times... I ran beside an alcohol funny truck that he said ran consistent low 10's and he was barely breaking into the 11's... so im assuming the heat & air density where all against us.. badly --- it was humid and extremely hot at the track.. , probably the reason it didn't feel like it ever slipped and I never noticed the light on the dashboard, (traction control light come on),,, to even think about turning the traction control off! It hooked up well on the factory tires, but then again,, it was my first 6 runs with a new vehicle. I've had a lot of practice,, just not with the F or an automatic tranny. -- i'm going again in a few weeks with the K&N typhoon and praying that its at least in the 80's next time.... hoping this will help shave off a few tenth's... if not more... :eek:
 

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My first pass on a bone stock setup, I did 13.42et. This is around to what the car was tested at in its current config so I was happy. I had sport mode OFF and trac ON and shifting it myself. I don't have my slip in front of me so can't tell you the 60ft.
Suggestions? Make sure you use *GOOD* 91/92/93 octane fuel! No octane booster or additives... use SHELL 91, BP-Amoco Ultimate (92/93), or Sunoco 94 if you can find it. Not all 91 octane fuels are created EQUAL! I have a feeling you know this, but I wanted to throw it out there for others who might read this.
Also, I did get a slow pass (13.9) when I heated the tires up in the water and then smoked them again in front of the water. All other times I was going AROUND the water which I do on every car I have driven on the strip without slicks and I get better times.
I did this experiment at home.. heat tires up in water. Pull forward. Get out and look for water puddling on the pavement under your tires. If so, you need to heat again after the water on dry pavement after the water. Then look again... if you still have water in the tread of the radials, this might be your problem. So do me a favor and TRY avoiding the water and see how you do next time on your E.T.s
Looking at your collection of cars, you might know all this, but I am just throwing it out there. I have been doing most of my best work at strips.
It may just take practice. oh, and new tires.
 

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Not sure about other members here but I use 93 FULL TIME!! All day every day!!
 

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Not sure about other members here but I use 93 FULL TIME!! All day every day!!
You have that option. We, folks in the West, don't:mad:

Lou
 

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You have that option. We, folks in the West, don't:mad:

Lou
Really? Is it a gas shortage of some type? Weird!! I'm use to the F running like a champ that it's a normal thing for me anything less would be considered a defect..

Maybe I should ship you some gas..;)
 

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WOW that sucks. I had no Idea... Reason 4957 why I will never visit....
 

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I have lived on the east coast now for a couple years, and certainly do love being able to buy 93 octane. On the other hand, I would gladly accept 91 octane if it meant I could live on the west coast again...the west coast is just more chill and less crowded. Also, if I remember correctly, in Oregon back in the day, there were several gas stations where you could get 92 octane.
 

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1. you definitely have to "launch" the car

2. did you strip the car of all the extra weight you could (ie spare tire, crap in the trunk/cabin, barely any gas in the tank....etc)?
 

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Definitely turn trac off, sport mode alone is not enough.
Haven't taken my F to a 1/4 track yet, but nailed a 13.2 in my IS350, that involved revving to about 1800 rpms before the green light. I've heard the F is MUCH harder to launch with all that power. (part of me wishes they'd have put wider rubber in the back)

Most important, remember that a 13.2 where you're at, won't be a 13.2 at other areas. (or even at your same track if you go back a different day) The air density plays a huge role. Here's a good tool to calculate your air density corrected time:
http://www.dragtimes.com/da-density...9&mph=116.710&correctetmph=Correct+ET+and+MPH
 

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to turn off traction controll hold for 15 secounds and it will stay off till you turn car off
Just to add--you need to be stopped for this to work. If you are moving the traction control will only turn off temporarily. You will know it worked when a second light comes on in the dash that it is off until you turn it back on or turn off the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Thanks for all the input and help. I have the traction control down (able to turn it off/on.. lol ) -- I've been using the paddles around town, practicing the launch a lot & also the shift points at the "DING".. It's very easy to break the rear wheels loose with the F ,, which is a good thing as it's making a lot of power for a stock motor. (Need slicks).. :D

-- I did leave everything on the car as stated in the first page of the post. -- The Borla dropped 20 lbs + in weight.. ,,,, > So I didn't remove the plenum cover, spare tire, tools, accessories, first aid kit or anything in the glovebox (ie: manuals, etc).. Next time I'm going to take all of that out and hopefully shed another 15 lbs ish' -- The Borla has definitely made it sound a lot more like it should & was pleased with the design of their standard axle backs.. I was amazed how restricted the Y designed pipe was before it "split"; it's pancaked.... , but again they designed this with a "reason in mine" and only assuming for back-pressure. Like it was said before, its a trade off of torque and hp. < it was well worth the change and it isn't TOO loud and not at all obnoxious sounding.. "so to speak" - just sounds like a 5.0 liter should sound....

I've been acustom to full length headers and exhaust on all my previous vehicles, but just didn't want to start messing with the "brain" of the cpu and throw a light, mess up the A/F ratio or something else. -- until someone comes out with a particular set of headers and full length exhuast, *WITH A TUNE*, designed for the F.. It simply will not run properly and not sure if I want to invest just a tune and full length exhuast. For the amount of money ,,, I would rather install a Zex Wet Shot (150hp) or just wait until someone designs a Supercharger, Whipple Charger, specifically for the F.

I have the K&N typhoon CAI, (haven't installed it yet), but I'm assuming it will slightly effect the "brain" somewhat.. and again I've heard throughout the years (on numerous different vehicles),, > that the brain will adjust to just an intake and exhaust and re-calibrate itself. I'm not sure until I dyno it numerous times later on next month.. (before CAI and after) -- Again, small things like this can throw off the timing, A/F, and other specific parts of the exhaust emmisions. --- >

I had used JBA Titanium and Ceramic coated full length headers on most of my vehicles in the past with Magnaflow for the exhaust.. Every one of them had a specific tune that was uploaded via an handheld programmer. XCaLII, etc.. etc...

- As far as the fuel: I was running on Shell 101 octane and my fuel level was aprx. about 1/2-1 gallon @ the track most of the night. ( I drove it to the track on E, and then added close to 2 gallons of 101 octane before making the 6 runs ). I shed as much "gas" weight as possible,, without running out of gas while on my way home or down the track for the fact.. lol

My best run was of course my last one and it was around mid-night when it was finally cooling off into the low 90's... :cool:

I did go through the water once or twice, but I usually avoid it on radials, unless I'm running on slicks.. next time I'm avoiding it on every run..

Thanks again for everyone's help and keep the info coming..

I'm still curious about the K&N CAI. I know a lot of people have ordered this intake / installed it with great "sound" results.. or the "butt" test it seems everyone is happy with it.. ;) -- just wasn't sure if anyone has seen a loss in power (via dyno-jet or mustang dyno) this CAI and if it has tripped any lights on the dash or such.

I guess next month I will find out , but thought I would throw that out there again. I've read a few post's where it seems to have returned great results for the most of the F owners. I know K&N is showing almost a 26 hp gain!! they must have had some extremely "pristine" conditions there.. or something.... For $250 bucks,, that's a lot of HP for the money in return.... BIG TIME...

Regards, L.L.
 

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I would imagine on the K&N, the gains are so high because they are removing(?) the stock air box. If you think about it, the two stage intake is very cool and all but it *is* also restricted until -what- 3,800rpm? Imagine if it wasn't.
Yes, please keep us posted. I am ordering one soon as this is a good $$$ vs. HP in my opinion.
 

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I pulled a 13.846 @ 104.09 mph....
My best time all stock with traction control on and in drive with sport mode on was 13.133 @ 110.17mph...Could the weather be that much of a factor??? I beleive it was around 60-65 degrees when I ran.
 

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The only thing I haven't noticed in any of the posts however, I am assuming you already have considered, is to ensure the climate control system is OFF. My understanding is that you can loose quite a bit of HP to run the system and compressor. Just a thought.
 
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