[boyracer]

i took mine off over the weekend and you can really hear the difference in the exhaust. hard for me to believe the car can me slower with this mod. anytime an engine gets more intake air it will produce more power.

one we remove the hose, should we cap of both sides of the solenoid?

 

[Supraman16]

i took mine off over the weekend and you can really hear the difference in the exhaust. hard for me to believe the car can me slower with this mod. anytime an engine gets more intake air it will produce more power.

one we remove the hose, should we cap of both sides of the solenoid?

You should cap both ends of the solonid to prevent any gunk from getting into it.

In regards to Juanca's data...I feel there is one major flaw in regards to the track conditions. The day that he did these runs were approximately 20 degrees cooler...thus worse for grip. Now you do this mod with I still believe results in more torque and power down low (this is what I feel, I don't have a dyno to prove it), you have a bit more wheel spin and thus lower ETA's and MPH, especially on the 1/8th mile. The 1/4 mile would be more accurate for both ETA and MPH and using the MPH for estimating the HP. With the flap closed/in stock mode, you have less torque and power down low and therefore less wheel spin (especially on a cooler day) and thus better times.

I have had this mod since I first came up with it and I have reversed it several times to see if it was only a part of my imagination that my car felt stronger down low with this mod. Sure enough, every time I chaged it back to stock it felt like my car was suffocated down low (kind of makes sense...it's not allowed to breathe as well with the flap closed). The throttle response was definately not as crisp with the flap closed/stock mode.

I currently have the JoeZ exhaust (which by the way is INCREDIBLE) and it seems that this mod makes even more power because now you have the car less restricted in the exhaust side and when you let it breath easier on the other end (intake side), you have a better performing car.

Juanca has some great objective data, but it is not completely equal given the track temps. I however like how my car feels with this mod and it's easy enough to return back to stock. I encourage people to give it a shot and also consider what Juanca has posted and make the decision for themselves.

Have fun modding...Darshana S...

 

[Bulls23337]

finally did this mod last friday. lovin' it so far! the growl occurs around 2k now with around half-throttle or more. it sounds like what happens when you add a CAI on other cars. it "feels" faster, but not sure if it really is. the growl at 3.6k "seems" less noticeable since the 2nd intake is now always open. one thing for sure though is that my foot has gotten heavier from flooring it more often.

does anyone have the joz intake + this mod?

 

[omarab12]

I tried it for a day and somehow the car idled at 500 rpms as opposed to its usual 8 or 900... dunno y that was the case, i plugged it back in and the car went back to normal... does this happen with all of u?

 

[retrosolutions]

I still experience some low rpm bogging after gear changes in normal driving. I have not yet bothered to plug it back in yet though.

 

[oarngemig]

I tried it for a day and somehow the car idled at 500 rpms as opposed to its usual 8 or 900... dunno y that was the case, i plugged it back in and the car went back to normal... does this happen with all of u?

If it's not causing you too much hassle, how bout leaving it like that for a couple of days to see if the ECU will "learn" or adapt to the new conditions, and retun to normal idle speed. hmmm...

 

[Supraman16]

I tried it for a day and somehow the car idled at 500 rpms as opposed to its usual 8 or 900... dunno y that was the case, i plugged it back in and the car went back to normal... does this happen with all of u?

Sounds like you have a vacuum leak when you unplugged the solinoid. Make sure the vacuum cap that you used isn't cracked or has a leak...I personally have had rubber vacuum caps that have a very slight crack in them that you can't see without looking at them very carefully...Darshana S...

 

[omarab12]

interesting... i'll try it when i get back from my trip to dubai which might be a bit long... im gonna go in our sts-v

 

[Jeff Taylor]

I have just gotten around to trying this mod. I'm a bit mixed on it so far. I haven't noticed much of a change in performance, but I'm not 100% sold on the sound yet.

Have the original posters kept the mod, or gone back to stock? Has anyone noticed any problems? Just curious.

Thanks,

Jeff
08 Smoky Granite Mica IS-F

 

[retrosolutions]

I have just gotten around to trying this mod. I'm a bit mixed on it so far. I haven't noticed much of a change in performance, but I'm not 100% sold on the sound yet.

Have the original posters kept the mod, or gone back to stock? Has anyone noticed any problems? Just curious.

Thanks,

Jeff
08 Smoky Granite Mica IS-F

Went back to stock a long time ago

 

[Jeff Taylor]

Went back to stock a long time ago

What made you decide to go back? The sound or warranty/performance concerns?

Thanks,

Jeff
08 Smoky Granite Mica IS-F

 

[retrosolutions]

What made you decide to go back? The sound or warranty/performance concerns?

Thanks,

Jeff
08 Smoky Granite Mica IS-F

the sound was nice but it was a step back in performance, albeit slight

 

[F-Bomb]

You don't need to remove the vacuum hoses to keep the second intake open. Disconnect the wire harness plug that powers the solenoid valve when the car is off. When the car is off the door is in the opened position. It does not close until the car is started and the engine pulls vaccum to pull it shut. When you unplug the harness the door stays in the open position and when you start the car it never closes the secondary intake. Its easier than messing with vacuum hoses. It works and the car was louder, but my shifting was harder, so I went back to stock.

 

[Jeff Taylor]

You don't need to remove the vacuum hoses to keep the second intake open. Disconnect the wire harness plug that powers the solenoid valve when the car is off. When the car is off the door is in the opened position. It does not close until the car is started and the engine pulls vaccum to pull it shut. When you unplug the harness the door stays in the open position and when you start the car it never closes the secondary intake. Its easier than messing with vacuum hoses. It works and the car was louder, but my shifting was harder, so I went back to stock.

Yes that is what I did, thanks. I haven't noticed any weird shifting behavior or loss of power. Then again, I don't get much chance to drive the car hard so I can't swear that no performance was lost.

Jeff
08 Smoky Granite Mica IS-F

 

[F'n around]

I remeber reading somewhere that the loss in power was pretty small, not much to worry about. I did this mod by disconnecting the plug too. I ended up reconnecting after about 2 weeks. I missed the 2nd opening at 3600! I don't need the roar all the time. Just when I want to get on it.

 

[IS F Steve]

I ended up drilling a 2 inch hole on the side of the flap towards the wheelwell. I left the flap in working order thinking maybe it is the best of both worlds. It should give a hair more air with the hole as well as the flap open and with the flap closed, it gives the ability to breath just a little more. No clue as to before or after regarding power but I really like how the car runs as well as the sound. I cannot feel any reduction in performance in any rpm range.

 

[Clippy]

Hey,
I'm new to this forum and could use some help

I'm owner of the MY09 Starfire Pearl ISF. Today I tried the DIY intake mod but I chose the easier option, and just unplugged the connector leading to the small metal box as per the photo instructions of the other member, instead of fiddling with vaccum hoses and caps.

After unplugging the connector, I started the engine and let it warm up by driving slowly around town. To my surprise, there was absolutely no change in the sound, and the "ISF roar" came at regular 3600rpm. Dynamic characteristics of the car also remained subjectivelly unchanged.

After parking the car in the supermarket lot and starting it up 10 minutes later, I got the engine light come up together with VDC Check. These fault indicators remain lit even after plugging of the connector back and driving around for about half an hour. Car still runs flawlessly though.

So my questions:
1. How do I get rid of the engine fault and VDC check indicators?
2. Why didn't the mod work for me? Did I unplug wrong connector (there seems to be just one)? Wasn't "the roar" supposed to arrive sooner, at around 2000rpm?

 

[F'n around]

Not sure what you unplugged. It should have worked just fine. I could only guess that you unplugged the wrong thing. As for the VDC light I am not sure, you could try to disconnect the battery for 10+ mins and reattach and see if that does it. If not it looks like a trip to the dealer is needed.

Good luck. Let us know what happens

 

[Clippy]

I unplugged the connector that Fig highlighted in his photo. There's just 1 connector so I doubt I unplugged the wrong one :-/

I'm new so can't post links, but the photo can be found on page 5 of this thread. I really don't understand what is wrong :-/

 

[Supraman16]

Hey,
I'm new to this forum and could use some help

I'm owner of the MY09 Starfire Pearl ISF. Today I tried the DIY intake mod but I chose the easier option, and just unplugged the connector leading to the small metal box as per the photo instructions of the other member, instead of fiddling with vaccum hoses and caps.

After unplugging the connector, I started the engine and let it warm up by driving slowly around town. To my surprise, there was absolutely no change in the sound, and the "ISF roar" came at regular 3600rpm. Dynamic characteristics of the car also remained subjectivelly unchanged.

After parking the car in the supermarket lot and starting it up 10 minutes later, I got the engine light come up together with VDC Check. These fault indicators remain lit even after plugging of the connector back and driving around for about half an hour. Car still runs flawlessly though.

So my questions:
1. How do I get rid of the engine fault and VDC check indicators?
2. Why didn't the mod work for me? Did I unplug wrong connector (there seems to be just one)? Wasn't "the roar" supposed to arrive sooner, at around 2000rpm?

This is odd. I've been running this mod for now 2+ years without a problem. I've also coverted over to the "disconnecting the plug" method rather than the vacuum cap method because I've noticed after awhile the caps would start to crack and leak. Anyway, in regards to your problem...I would reset your ECU and try to get rid of the problem codes, or better yet, get a OBDII scanner and pull the trouble codes before you reset the ECU. Do you have any other mods on your car such as a Throttle Controller, etc?...Darshana S...